Urban exploration

When chatting with Dan at happy hour the other day, our conversation turned, as it often does, to traveling and exploration.  He turned me on to this blog, a remarkable collection of photos and stories documenting adventurous people exploring abandoned, private, or otherwise inaccessible historic places around the world. 

The specific post that he was telling me about concerned the London Post Office Railway - a now sealed-off system of subway stations and tunnels once used to shuttle mail around the city.  It reminded me of a story I once read about an abandoned, pre-Metro subway system in DC, though I couldn't recall the details.

A little googling led first to this Washington Post story about the Mole Way, which turned out to be an old April Fool's joke (a fact I did not come to understand until I was almost ready to drop everything at work and go hunting for abandoned stations this afternoon).  But, eventually, I came across this series of photos posted in a forum about an old station and series of trolley tunnels beneath Dupont Circle.  This is what I was looking for, though it is significantly less extensive and cool than its British counterpart.  Apparently some investors tried unsuccessfully to turn it into a food court in the 90's and now a group wants to convert the space to an art gallery.

The concept of urban exploration has always fascinated me.  A city, with its landmarks and grid of streets and richly documented history, presents an accessible canvas on which to compare the past to the present.  Roaming around DC with a camera (and some snacks) has always been one of my favorite weekend pastimes.  Discovering a blog like Silent UK appeals to this same intrepid part of my personality - with much less walking, to boot.

A form of historic preservation

One of the more hilarious examples of adaptive reuse in DC is this old, pre-Civil War residence, located in what is now Chinatown (itself a shell of its past authenticity).  In the mid 1800's, Mary Surratt ran a boarding house in this building.  The conspirators in the Lincoln assassination, including Surratt's son and John Wilkes Booth, met frequently at the boarding house to plot the murder.  Since Surratt and the conspirators were promptly hung, I suppose that opened the door for the building's new owners to take over: Wok n Roll, a greasy Chinese restaurant.  Although it is amusing to imagine Wok n Roll been dishing up General Tso's Chicken circa 1870, I imagine there were several owners in the interim.

To commemorate the building's historic nature, there is a fading bronze plaque hanging on the outside wall.  Beneath the garish blue awning.  And next to the front door, adorned with credit card logos and Zagat decals.

Fall in the Capital 2010

A few weeks ago, I wrote with wonder about the striking nature of autumn colors on a rainy afternoon.  But, truthfully, there are endless ways to appreciate my favorite season.  As we transition into the long, cold winter, this is my homage to fall.

A glimpse of old grandeur

Inspired by Tom’s recent post about an organ-supported theater in Jersey City, NJ, I decided to pay homage to two fantastic places in the DC area.  The first, AFI Silver Theater in downtown Silver Spring, is not one I’ve frequented much over the years, though this is mostly due to the fact that I rarely go out to see movies. Originally constructed in 1938, it was renovated in the early 2000’s as part of the rejuvenation of downtown Silver Spring.  These days, the theater mostly screens artsy independent movies (I saw Waiting for Superman there recently) and is also heavily involved in the local film festival scene.

By contrast, The Uptown, despite modernized interior amenities, hearkens back to the heyday of single screen “movie palaces,” and all of the glamorous old-school Hollywood imagery that that conjures.  With its balcony seating and large capacity, the Cleveland Park theater draws crowds with major studio blockbusters.  The Uptown has been my favorite movie theater for as long as I can remember and it occupies a special place in our local entertainment scene.  When presented with the opportunity to see Star Wars or Star Trek or something equally big and sweeping on that huge screen, you don’t need to say you’re “going to the movies.”  Instead, you’re just “going to The Uptown.”

Red brick schoolhouses

Inspired by this fun book, a fascinating website that Jimmy shared with me, and a recent visit to the Washington Historical Society, I decided to rebrand some of my previous posts with a new label.  Titled Local Color, it is meant to serve as a catch-all for content directly related to the place that I call home, ranging from ruminations on city politics and events to photos from my periodic weekend roamings.  More than anything, I hope to capture an appreciation of local history, especially interesting old buildings and institutions, with particular attention paid to the impact (or lack thereof) that it continues to have on our modern lives.

One of the exhibits at the Historical Society is currently dedicated to the preservation of DC’s 19^th century school buildings, particularly the Franklin School, off of K Street downtown.  Fresh off seeing Waiting for Superman, the maladies of our nation’s public schools were planted prominently in my mind when I visited. I thought the film was very well done, though rather than inspire me with the sweeping possibility of education reform, it instilled in me a dire, depressing sense of helplessness.

By contrast, in the 1860’s, the District helped to pioneer the evolution of American public education from the single-room schoolhouse to a model that resembles our present-day system – large buildings with classes separated by age.  The city engaged architect Adolf Cluss, whose mark can be found on many notable city buildings, including Eastern Market, to design several of these facilities.

Wallach School

The first, the Wallach School, was located on Capitol Hill.  It was a grand-looking building with a capacity of 600 students, named for the mayor who spearheaded this reform effort.  A prototype for many others that followed, the Wallach School gained international recognition as a model for urban public schooling.  It operated until the mid twentieth century when, unfortunately, it was razed and replaced with a modern building (the Hine Junior High School) that has since been abandoned.  Many of these historic structures met with this sad fate during this period.

Of the handful that remain are the Sumner School at 17^th & M NW, still in use, and the Franklin School, which currently sits empty.  Even after students left, the District’s school administration offices were housed there until they outgrew the space in the 1960’s.  Since then, the school was used briefly as a homeless shelter but its future is now uncertain.  The building graces the eastern side of Franklin Square, nestled among modern high rise offices - a reminder of a rustic age gone by, when DC’s public education system was at the forefront of the world, instead of a national disgrace.

Franklin School

Sumner School

Playing tourist

After a cruddy Thursday morning at work and a busy past couple of weeks, I decided to take today off. I had no particular plan for the day, and considered spending it shopping, reading, or sitting on the couch, watching dvds.

Instead, I decided to hop on the metro and indulge in one of my favorite pastimes, usually reserved for crisp weekend afternoons in the spring and fall: roaming aimlessly around DC with a camera and an intrepid spirit.

Today my adventure was slightly more focused. I have been trying for almost two years to find a good time to see the newly renovated American History Museum, so that topped my to do list. The rest was improvised.

After crying my way through exhibits on the military, 18th century fulfilment of the American Dream, and, of course, the original Star Spangled Banner, I had lunch and set out for the Tidal Basin. I often forget about the FDR Memorial, and especially never remember just how large it is, but I think it's one of my favorites.

Now, gazing across the water at the Jefferson (another favorite), as planes take-off from National behind me and families, joggers, and a teenager wielding a fishing rod roam by, I feel contentedly awash with patriotism. DC, I think, has a unique power to do that. Despite being the seat of such nasty, divisive political rhetoric, the city is also a magnet for Americans from all walks of life as well as foreign tourists who seem happy to shrug off the prevailing anti-Americanism in the world. All come to marvel at the history, the beauty, and, more than anything, the enduring institutions of our nation, generously scattered, to grandiose effect, around downtown DC.

I love living here and, most of the time, love playing tourist in my own city.

Streetcars and public education

After dinner a week ago, some volunteers from the Fenty campaign knocked on our door to encourage us to attend the Ward 4 Democratic straw poll taking place that night.  With nothing else to do, Joe and I finished our dessert (ice cream) and hopped in the car.

Never having been to a straw poll before, neither of us really knew what to expect.  The volunteers had touted the possibility of free refreshments (nope) and, hoping for some face time with the mayor (also no), we brought a copy of the Washington Post's editorial endorsement for him to sign.  We thought it might look good on our bulletin board, next to the autographed Vic Vickers poster from Alaska and the floating Princess Diana head.

The evening turned out to be quite an experience.  I have never seen so many people, all so excited about local politics, crammed into one place.  After struggling to find a nearby parking space along the street, we had to wait in a very long line to cast our vote.  The poll was not just for the mayoral race - supporters and volunteers for a variety of city council posts were crawling all over the place, offering literature, stickers, and an earful.

What I liked the best, I think, was the fact that all of the candidates, aside from Fenty and Gray, were working the line of voters themselves.  We had a lengthy discussion with Vincent Orange, a former council member who is running against Kwame Brown for the chairmanship.  I'm supporting Fenty, despite the fact that I think he's a jerk, because I respect his accomplishments and I really like the work that Michelle Rhee is doing with DC Public Schools.  The guy in front of us in line was asking all of the candidates about their position on streetcars, something I hadn't even thought about as an issue, but which I strongly support.  It was really interesting to hear everyone stake out their positions.

With such a long line to vote, we hardly got to see any of the forum between Fenty and Gray.  From what I did see, they bickered like a pair of bratty, contentious schoolchildren, which was kind of silly.  Gray ended up winning, even though Ward 4 is Fenty's home district and one of his strongholds.  Though the results of the poll do not bode well for the upcoming primary in September, it was, nevertheless, gratifying to see such a strong turnout.  Democracy is alive and well in the District.

Winter in the capital

I don't think I posted a series of winter photos last year.  The cold, dreary days of January and February, with their lifeless trees and frigid sunlight do not inspire particularly alluring pictures and, further, make roaming around outside with a camera especially unappealing.  But there is something magical about about fresh snow - and we have had plenty of that this year.

Although it mangles my commute and schedule and, here in D.C., quickly turns a dull shade of grayish brown, I still have trouble disliking snow.  Maybe it's a remnant of my childhood - excitedly watching big flakes fall from the sky, hoping the ground was cold enough for them to stick and cancel school.  Or maybe, despite all of the annoyances, I still like snow because it brightens an otherwise depressing season with its unpredictable, breathtaking beauty.

Fall in the capital 2009

It's striking to me how different Rock Creek Park is from New York's Central Park. Both bisect major cities, but the former seems untamed and wild when compared to the manicured lawns and paved paths of the latter. One is not necessarily better than the other, but I think it's pretty amazing that I can walk 15 minutes from my house in Northwest D.C. and be hiking on hilly, forested trails. The autumn foliage makes it even better.

Summer in the capital

The months of July and August are not typically very pleasant in D.C. Humidity sets in and makes hot weather feel hotter. Maybe it's because this summer has been relatively mild, or maybe I'm just more tolerant than before, but this year has not bothered me too much. And even when it's miserable outside, there's something distinctly nostalgic about summertime - long days, bright green leaves, delicious tomatoes, and frequent barbecues. Also, the end of August means that fall, my favorite season, is not far away. (And doesn't Tyser Tower look awesome??)

Spring in the capital

Steve and I had an abbreviated cherry blossom encounter last weekend, before a harrowing journey from the Tidal Basin to the Kennedy Center. D.C. is always really pretty, but spring sunshine makes it even better.

Fall in the capital, part 2

Colorful foliage and monuments from several weeks ago. D.C. is a great place.

Fall in the capital

On the continuing theme of why I love fall (and DC) so much, here are some photographic reasons. The leaves weren't as colorful as I thought they'd be, so another excursion might be forthcoming.